Motorcycle

Motorcycles

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Showing 1–15 of 89 items
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Alpine Motorsports
1606 West Hwy. 90, Alpine, TX, 79830
Motorcycles
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Anything Custom Powersports Service Center
6352 Doniphan Dr., El Paso, TX, 79932
Motorcycles
rowdy
Rowdy Rocket Garage
3000 South Colorado Boulevard, Unit B, Denver, CO, 80222
Motorcycles
larrys
Larry's Custom Cycle
111 General Somervell St. NE., Albuquerque, NM, 87123
Motorcycles
newlife
New Life Builders Santa Fe
Dan Chappell
27717 West Frontage Road, Unit 9, Santa Fe, NM, 87507
Motorcycles
ocd
OCD Custom Cycle
1315 Rufina Cir., Santa Fe, NM, 87507
Motorcycles
jg
JG Re-Cycle Motorcycle Repair
4020 Grand Ave Ste 1, Phoenix, AZ, 85019
Motorcycles
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Grumpy's Garage
4570 Donovan Way Suite 118, North Las Vegas, NV, 89081
Motorcycles
ncm
National City Motorcycle
1504 National City Blvd., National City , CA, 91950
Motorcycles
fast lane
Fast Lane Cycles
1122 S. G St., Suite B, Perris, CA, 92570
Motorcycles
chino
The Bike Shop Chino
Joshua Soto
4780 Chino Ave., Suite B, Chino, CA, 91710
Motorcycles
wicked
Strictly Wicked Cycles
16055 Caputo Dr., Suite I, Morgan Hill, CA, 95037
Motorcycles
mc
RMC Moto
Rick
3485 Woodward Ave., Santa Clara, CA, 95054
Motorcycles
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Kile Brothers Cycleworks
3294 Swetzer Rd., Loomis, CA, 95650
Motorcycles
streeetscenes
Streetscenes Moto Garage
3913 Steilacom Blvd., SW, Lakewood, WA, 98499
Motorcycles

MOTORCYCLE Checklist

PrePurchaseInvestigators.com  EXAMPLE of a good MOTORCYCLE  Checklist.

This sample checklist is JUST AN EXAMPLE of items an Expert will investigate.

    • Visual rust or cracks.
    • Appearance of chrome.
    • Does the bike look straight? Look from rear, front and side on. Are the forks straight and parallel? Frame tubes not obviously damaged.
    • Shallow or non-parallel scratches or minor chips possibly from a tip-over.
    • Long, deep, and parallel scratches and cracks are sustained in a crash.
    • Dents in the fuel tank from the handlebars, dents or deep scratches in the exhaust pipes, or cracked plastic that’s been covered with stickers.
    • Anything obviously missing? Different from left side to right?
    • Check the front and rear wheels—are they in line and parallel? Must be on the center stand, wheel blocks, or race stand to examine this properly.
    • If the rear wheel doesn’t appear to be parallel to the front wheel, is it square in the swing arm?
    • Check the markings on the chain adjusters on the swing arm. Are they in the same position left and right?
      • Look along the drive chain. Do the links look straight?
    • If on a center or race stand, spin the rear wheel. It should spin freely and smoothly without wobble and stop immediately when the rear brake pedal is pressed.
    • Are things present that should be? Handlebar switch blocks, buttons, levers, mirrors, indicators, lens covers, pegs, seats, fenders,
    • Frame and engine numbers match the paperwork.
    • If registered, does paperwork match.
    • Last safety inspection (if applicable).
    • Quantity and Quality of oil, coolant, and brake fluid levels when/where accessible.
    • Brake fluid color should be clear, pale yellow or honey-colored brake fluid, not black or dark brown.
    • Signs of leaks.
      • Radiator and at connections.
      • Suspension forks for leaking seals.
      • Engine oil leaks.
    • Attempt to ascertain maintenance history and last changes of all fluids.
    • Examine with a flashlight.
      • Check for a milky coating, rust, or loose sediment on the inside of the tank.
      • Plastic gas tanks on late-model bikes should look milky white inside.
      • A milky coating on a metal tank indicates recoated. Properly done is good.
      • Dark or foul smelling gas means it’s been sitting too long and probably needs the fuel system cleaned. May not be able to test ride.
    • Any obvious oil leaks?
    • Engine relatively clean or covered in wet oil and road dust?
    • Oily black dirt rings around the front forks indicating leaking seals
    • Is there oil dripping under the engine?
      • If it has been moved out for your inspection, look under the engine cases for fresh leaking engine oil.
    • Oil on the rear suspension?
    • Gasoline leaks from the tank, fuel lines, overflow lines, or carburetors.
    • Matching tires with at least 1/8” of remaining tread.
    • Flat tread with longitudinal grooves indicative of burnouts.
    • Edges of the tires on a sports bike: feathering, minute surface ripples, or pilling, can indicate the bike was track ridden.
    • Dry rot.
    • Date codes.
    • Forks:
      • Seal leaks, scratches, dents, or bends.
    • Suspension moves silently when bounced up and down (hold brake when necessary).
      • No Binding, squeaking, or clunking.
    • Scratches, scuffs, or dents on both sides of the wheels.
      • Wobble, etc. as checked on initial visual inspection.
    • Sprocket teeth are symmetrical without wear (not hooked or pointy).
    • Chain:
      • Covered in oil and dirt, clean and lightly lubricated, dry and rusty?
      • Correctly adjusted
    • Tools and an owner’s manual present.
      • Service records in manual?
    • Is the Battery clean, no corrosion on terminals.
    • Seat should not be loose when sitting on it.
    • Properly retained place. no loose wires outside of harnesses.
    • Extra electrical tape, aftermarket/inappropriate connectors and modifications.
    • Aged, cracked, brittle wires.
    • Headlights (High and Low beams), Running Lights, Signal Lights, Brake Lights, Instruments.
    • Oil pressure light turns on when the ignition is turned on and goes out once the engine starts and builds oil pressure.
    • Ignition Switch, On/Off Switch.
    • Look original to the bike or replaced.
    • Move freely or binding.
    • Exhaust securely attached.
    • Gearshift lever should have proper free play before engagement into gears.
      • Should not have lateral movement.
    • Brake pedal. Proper free play and engagement without too much effort.
    • Cables should all operate smoothly without visible fraying. If you feel resistance or hear scratching when you squeeze a lever, a cable may be bad.
      • Does throttle cable release and snap back quickly?
    • Smooth engagement.
    • Should not drag.
    • Visible wear/wear indicators.
    • Should not be able to push bike with either front or rear brakes independently engaged.
    • Handlebars turn freely left and right without binding, noise, or stiffness.
    • Any movement in steering neck bearings with static test?
    • Handlebars secure in their clamps.
    • Switch blocks secure on the handlebars.
    • Mirrors secure.
    • Owner must be notified that bike must be checked cold and NOT warmed up before the Inspector’s arrival.
    • Engine easy to start as it should like new.
      • Requires a special start routine?
    • Engine noisy on start up?
      • Unusual Chain or Gear noises?
      • Ticking or metal to metal noises?
    • Is engine blowing smoke?
    • Does the noise level from the exhaust seem excessive? Can you find any exhaust leaks?
    • If the bike is fitted with a choke, push it in when the engine has warmed up (put your hand on the cylinder head and see it is warm). Will the bike idle without the choke?
    • Clutch / Transmission engagement from neutral into first gear and each progressive shift.
    • Noises from transmission, clutch, wheels, or engine. Knocking, Clunking, Pinging, Rattling, or metal on metal.
    • Do any noises increase / decrease with engine RPM or with road speed.
    • Handling.
    • Braking.
    • Throttle Response.
    • Vibrations.